Raising Ducks
Basics
Duckling diary
Management
Housing
Eggs
Links/Resources
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and please note:
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Duck house
New crib! The ducks moved into their new house in
ctober 2003. More photos and construction notes are available below.
When we first got our ducks, we put them
under our second-story deck at night for safety.
This was secure and comfortable for them, but not entirely convenient
for us, and not a very good long-term solution.
During the ducks' second summer I built this house
and run at the back of our yard. It is smaller than their old space; the
house is about four feet square, but the attached run triples that space.
Except in very cold weather, they spent most of their nights under the
deck by the fence, looking out, and in cold weather they huddled together
between straw bale windbreaks, so this new design suits them well. I'm
glad I waited to build a proper house, actually; when we first got the
ducks I wouldn't have understood their needs. For example, I didn't bother
to build nestboxes, since we were never able to get our ducks to use the
ones in their old pen.
I built this house to be extremely secure, long-lasting,
and attractive enough for the backyard. As a result it was not cheap (over
$250 for materials) or trivial to build, but it should last for several
generations of ducks, and we don't have to worry about predators. I should
also say that I borrowed the basic design from the Kintaline Poultry and Waterfowl Centre in Scotland; if you live
in the United Kingdom, you may want to buy one of theirs instead of building
your own. (Their Westford model is the house I was looking at.)
Photos
Click any of the photos for a larger version.
Construction notes
Materials
The total cost of lumber, hardware, hardware cloth, roofing, paint,
and other materials was between $250 and $300. It wasn't cheap, but
it will last a long time, and it is also extremely secure.
- The wood frame is regular untreated lumber, which is half the price
of pressure-treated lumber. This is covered with exterior-grade siding
plywood designed for sheds; it has indented vertical stripes to help
rain run off. The wood frame of the pen is also untreated; with regular
repainting it will hold up fine, and was half the cost of pressure-treated
lumber.
- The roof is a composite material that seems to hold up fine but
was an awful pain to work with. It is corrugated like tin roofing
to aid runoff. If I had it to do over, I'd use tin roofing, but since
it's done, I don't have any regrets. The roofing is nailed into exterior
grade plywood that I nailed to the rafters.
- The run, windows, and vents under the front and back of the roof
are secured with 1/2-inch hardware cloth, stapled to the wood frame
with 3/8-inch staples. I have heard of racoons reaching through chickenwire,
and the narrower gauge also keeps snakes out. It's more expensive
than chickenwire, but I think the security is worth it. The run is
also floored with chickenwire (also stapled to the frame) to prevent
anything digging in.
- The paint is exterior grade oil over an exterior oil primer. I found
an oil-based paint designed for barns whose manufacturer alleges it
to be non-toxic.
Construction
Building the house and run — framing, roofing, hanging the door,
building the run, stapling hardware cloth, building the lids, and painting
— took almost four months, but I wasn't in a hurry, stopped
a few times to reconsider my plans, had to wait out frequent rain, and
had a baby in the middle of the process. If I had to build a second
one, I could probably finish it in a week of work.
As with the grazing pen, I went to some
extra trouble to make the house and run look good in the backyard. The
joints in the wood frame of the run are half-lapped (so that the surface
of each side is flat). For portability, the run is joined to the house
with screws that can be removed, and the house and run transported separately.
- The house is 48" wide by 50" deep on the outside; 47"
high in back, 53" in front. The run is the depth of the house,
8' long, and 30" high.
- The house rests on cinder blocks which are set into the ground to
level it. The run was built after the house was leveled, directly
on the ground.
- The door to the house is hung like the door of a house and latches
tightly. The latch is not difficult to open but it does require a
level of manual dexterity beyond that of any nonhuman animal that
might try to open it.
- The run is covered with two lids, framed by 2x4s and secured with
hardware cloth. The lids are hinged at the back; in the front they
latch with barrel bolts. This provides easy access for humans but,
again, no predator can get in. There is no ground-level entrance to
the run.
If I get really ambitious, I will draw up proper plans and post them
here as a PDF file, but my pencil sketches and scrawled notes, most
of which I revised in my head as I actually built the thing, would not
be of much use here. (I said exactly the same thing last year about
my grazing pen, and it hasn't happened yet, so don't hold your breath.
Maybe when I write my book.)
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