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Portable grazing pen for ducks
Livin' large. Think of
it as a duck playpen. (They do.) More photos and construction
notes are available below.
I designed this grazing pen with several
things in mind. It had to keep the ducks safe and content, it had to be
portable, and it had to be easy to take apart so we can move it to the
"real farm." And it had to look good enough to sit in the middle
of the backyard. And not cost too much.
So this is what I came up with. This pen
is 12 feet by 8 feet, 3 feet high, with wheels at one end and a gate at
the other for the ducks to go in and out of. (Since Campbell ducks need
a gradual takeoff and can't fly far anyway, 3 feet is more than enough
to keep them in.) The frame is made from wood (untreated and painted)
and is fenced in with chicken wire; we cover the top with bird netting
to keep out hawks and freeloading songbirds. At one end are hooks for
a tarp that provides shade and a shelter from the rain as necessary.
We move the pen to a new location in the
yard once or twice a week, then hose down the grass briefly to water in
the manure. It is based on the idea of a "chicken tractor,"
a portable chicken coop that can be moved around to allow the chickens
free access to fresh pasture without manure building up. This is the backyard
version, more attractive, and gives the ducks more space than most chicken
tractors (including ample room for a baby pool, as you can see in the
photos). It has wheels at the back end; two people lifting from the front
can easily move it, one can move it with difficultyI am looking
for the right sort of handles to allow one person to move it more easily.
Since most predators are nocturnal, this
is plenty secure for daytime grazing. The bird netting keeps hawks out
(a few leaves scattered on top helps them see it) and the pen will keep
out neighbor dogs and cats (who have never climbed the four-foot fence
around our yard to go after birds at the birdfeeder anyway).
Photos
Click any of the photos for a larger version.
Construction notes
Materials
The total cost of lumber, hardware, bird netting, tarp, and paint was
$130. I already had the chicken wire, and I had salvaged the wheels
from an old reel lawn mower that I replaced the previous spring (a triumph
for pack rats everywhere). If I had bought the wire and wheels, it would
probably have added $30 to the cost of the pen.
- The wood frame is regular untreated 2x4-inch lumber, which is half
the price of pressure-treated lumber. If the paint is maintained it
will be fine outdoors. (It will certainly be fine if it never rains
again, which as of June 2002 seems rather likely.)
- The chicken wire is 2-inch mesh, 3 feet high. I used a staple gun
and 5/16-inch staples to fix it to the inside of the frame. (The length
of staples was determined by a scientific survey of what I happened
to have on hand.)
- The paint is interior/exterior latex enamel, over a latex exterior
primer. Oil-based primer would be better but I had three-quarters
of a gallon of latex leftover from another project.
- The gate is exterior plywood, sealed with deck sealer before painting.
The latch is a barrel bolt (basically the simplest thing available).
- The wheels are about 8 inches in diameter, which is smaller than
I would have bought, but they work quite well. I could not find wheels
even this small for under $10 each.
- The bird netting over the top of the pen is the kind sold for gardens,
12 feet square. (We got this idea from the Beginner's Guide to Indian
Runner Ducks, a wonderful website that sadly is no longer available.)
- The tarp (which is not visible in the photos) is 6 feet by eight
feet, black on one side and silver on the other to absorb or reflect
sunlight depending on the season. The tarp cost about $6 by mail-order
from FarmTek, much less than I would have expected.
Construction
Building the pen took several afternoons and eveningsprobably two
weekends worth of afternoons and a week's worth of evenings. Because I
wanted the pen to look good in the yard, all of the joints in the wood
frame are half-lapped (so that the surface of each side is flat). The
four sides are joined to each other by lag screws, which can be removed
to break down the pen when we move in a few years.
- The pen is 8 feet by 12 feet, 3 feet high.
- I built each of the four sides of the pen separately with half-lap
joints, which took a lot of extra time to cut by hand (I do not have
a table saw) but make the finished pen look much nicer than if I had
simply screwed the boards together on top of each other. The joints
are secured with galvanized deck screws.
- On the front, the bottom of the frame rests on the ground; on the
sides and back, it is 3 inches off the ground, so that the front end
rests on the ground evenly with the wheels. (Or rather, it would if
we had any level ground for it to rest on. It is close enough.)
- I joined the sides at the ends with 3-1/2-inch lag screws, one at
each of the eight corners of the pen, which can be removed to break
down the pen when we move to a bigger place.
- I hung the door on the finished front side before I joined the sides
togetherit was easier to fit it properly with the side lying flat
on the groundthen removed the hardware and re-hung it after the
pen was painted and finished. The barrel bolt I attached last, when
the pen was standing; otherwise you never know if it will actually fit
properly.
- We stapled the chicken wire to the inside of the frame after the
pen was painted. Since the pen is the same height as the wire, the wire
comes all the way to the ground. (Well, again: it would if the ground
were level. In practice there is usually a gap somewhere of an inch
or so, but this is not enough to let predators in.)
- When the tarp is on the pen, it is attached to one pair of screw
eyes at the back of the pen and one pair about 4 feet in, on a 1-foot
post extending over the top of the frame; so two feet or so of tarp
hang down over the back edge of the pen. The idea here is that the rain
will run off the tarp and away from the back of the pen, and should
it ever rain, I will be able to test this theory. A short length of
rope tied to the grommets on the tarp with an S-hook at the other end
allows easy installation and removal of the tarp.
- The bird netting is secured to the chicken wire with clothespins.
If I get really ambitious, I will draw up proper plans and post them
here as a PDF file, but my pencil sketches and scrawled notes, most of
which I revised in my head as I actually built the thing, would not be
of much use here.
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